2006 Los Vascos Cabernet (Colchagua Valley)

Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) is involved of this production of this Chilean Cab, and whatever they're doing simply works. This is a "new world" style of Cab, with lots of flavor. It's not as terse as some Cabs, but certainly has its share of tannins and strength. I'd found a bottle of the exact same wine from the 2007 far too gentle, but found the 2006 bottling to be more middle-of-the-road in terms of the muscular nature of cabs. The standout point for me was in the complexity of it's flavor. It had a kind of spice--not a traditional pepper, and not exactly the eucalyptus-type spice you can find in a lot of Chilean Carmenere, but something more subtle and delightful. Hard to pin down, which perhaps is the trademark of what makes complexity in wine so delightful. This was a cab I felt truly at home with, especially in terms of its proportionality of dryness, spice, and flavor.

Presentation: ****

Nose: ***

Complexity: ****

Value: ****

Overall: ****

Clos Du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

In the cellar, I'd noticed a fair amount of sediment forming in this 375ml bottle, and decided it was time to open it. The flavors were very much in tact, and it showcased classic Napa cab bouquet and terroir, along with some spice and an especially delightful--if slight--scent of cedar. We tried it alongside a Geyser Peak cabernet, from Alexander Valley, and both the body and the nose of this latter wine paled in comparison to the Clos Du Val.

Presentation: ****

Nose: *****

Complexity: ****

Value: ***

Overall: ****

Dos Cabezas "El Norte" 2006

When I saw this unique bottle of Dos Cabezas at Total Wine and More while visiting my family in Arizona this spring, I couldn't resist picking up a bottle of this red blend for about $20. Having spent a brief time volunteering in Cochise County, I was curious what kind of quality the wine would have, especially given the arid conditions particularly near the border and around Bisbee. It blends Granache, Petit Sirah, Syrah, and Mourvedre in unspecified amounts, and I think the chalky dry flavors that come out of Spanish Granache are particularly apparent here. The nose is subtle, but the flavors linger long after a sip, and include anise, dried herbs, and leather. This wine scores high points, particularly for it's complexity and presentation. Nicely done, Dos Cabezas!

Presentation: ****

Nose: ***

Complexity: *****

Value: ***

Overall: ****

2006 Duxoup "Frediani Vineyard" Charbono

This Charbono--a varietal that makes up only a tiny fraction of a percent of grapes grown in America--was enjoyable but failed to delight. Right away there was signature napa terroir, and I was glad to see it was a single vineyard Charbono, but overall the wine had a thin and straightforward taste, which was a bit dusty. Without enough big flavors or complexity, it's low alcohol content (12.5%) left the overall experience of the wine to be average at best. This, to be fair, follows an evening enjoying one of the most delightful August Briggs wines I've ever had--a 2007 Zinfandel. So there may have been some lingering sense that this was not the same caliber of bottle...but as spanish speakers say...asi es la vida!

Presentation: **

Nose: ***

Complexity: *

Value: *

Overall: **

Cycles Gladiator 2007 Syrah

Presentation: ****

Nose: ***

Complexity: ****

Value: ****

Overall: ****

I truly thought I was over Syrah/Shiraz completely until I had a bottle of this a few weeks ago on a hot summer night. I cooled it down and drank it at about 55 or 60 degrees and it was a true delight. While I'd overlooked it in the past (at room temperature) it showcased it's best side when cooled. With flavors of cedar, spice box, and aromatic pipe tobacco--and a inky color to boot--this wine's a true winner.

2005 Old Vines Mas Donis Barrica Granacha

This 85% Grenache/15% Syrah had a vine-like, bramble-type flavor, which was striking at first pour. The more time I gave it, though, the better I liked it, as flavors of earth, pebbles and brick came forward. Even after a few days of refrigeration (I had to part ways with this bottle for an out-of-town triathlon) it maintained a great deal of its flavor, though the nose wasn't as apparent. I tend to enjoy spicy thai food and even spicier salsas, so this was just my cup of tea...even if it took me a glass and a half to get used to it. If you like spicy California Zinfandels and don't mind something with a bit of muscle, this might be a good wine to try. It retails at $13-15 a bottle.

Presentation: ****
Nose: ****
Complexity: ****
Value: ***

Overall: ****

Folie e Deux Amador County Zinfandel 2006

The best thing about this Zinfandel is it's savory swirled flavor. The best way to describe the flavor might be ambling down a dusty trail with a strawberry patch on either side of you. The flavors this wine brings forth are generous and underneath the velvety mouthfeel, there's a spicy quality as well. Three stars across the board, except for the four star (perhaps even four and a half star) complexity. Delightful as a stand alone bottle, best just below room temperature!

Nose: ***

Presentation: ***

Complexity: ****

Value: ***

Overall: ***

Albero Organic Tempranillo 2006

This fiesty tempranillo has a good deal of bite, along with some cherry and gravelly flavors. The nose itself is rocky and terse. Not unlike the great Billie Holiday, this wine has a tone and a style all its own, with a certain combination of roughness and refinement packed into one. I think this is a wine that makes a great deal of sense with Spanish cuisine: olives, bread with oil, almonds, cheese, etc. Wonderful for the price!

Nose: ****

Presentation: ***

Complexity: ****

Value: ****

Overall: ****

"NEXT:" 2007 Pinot Noir (Eugene, OR)

This enjoyable bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir accomplishes a good deal in its subtlety, and is especially striking in its nose. It's most significant flavors are earth and loam, but its nose includes wildflowers and meadow grasses. The nose, simply put, is wonderful. The winemaking also shows good craftmanship. The bottle's psuedo-poetry remarks "we always stand at a crossroads" and this bottle indeed reminds us of that--standing at the crossroads of mediocrity and excellence--it could use a shove in one of the two directions. As it stands, I found it to be lacking in the "bite" or harshness that belies low-quality (and low cost) pinot noirs, but also lacking that which would make it a stellar pinot. [note: this photo features the tough, arduous life of a wine blogger]

Presentation: ****

Nose: ****

Complexity: **

Value: *

Overall: ***

Georges Duboeuf 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau

While not the normal style of presentation that I tend to like, this in-your-face metallic gold, yellow and red bottle makes a big statement. The wine that is held within is a real treat: it's straightforward enough, yet has some lingering aftertaste notes of vanilla and cloves, making it's overall complexity rather delightful. For anyone who's tasted and enjoyed V. Sattui's Gamay, this knocks it's socks off. It's smoothness and velvety mouthfeel rival many good California Syrahs, but with a far lower alcohol content (12.5%). And at about $10 a bottle, it's a value as well.

Presentation: *****

Nose: ***

Complexity: ****

Value: ****

Overall: ****

1985 Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon

Presentation: *****

Nose: *****

Complexity: ***

Value: NA

Overall: *****

They say a lot of factors determine if you like a piece of art--what you had for lunch, what kind of mood you're in, who you're with, what song is on your mind, and etc. I think wine is very much the same way. So without too much sentimentality (but at least a bit) I shared this bottle with my Uncle Gary, while watching Butler beat Michigan State in the NCAA Final Four, on a hot afternoon in the Phoenix-area. After we dealt with the crumbly cork via coffee filter, we sampled this wine as is and having passed through his Vinturi device. Both were good. The Vinturi indeed opened it up a bit, but the real treat of this wine was it's mellowness--very much the way a spicy zinfandel will mellow with time. It had all the structure of a good Napa Cab, but none of the "tightness" a newer cab would have. It was plenty dry, generous in flavor and aftertaste, and left me with lingering notes of honey and coffee. Which I don't think was from the espresso we'd had earlier...when we left to get dinner an hour or two later, he had a glass or so left for a future moment. So he'll get the final take on this bottle. Thanks Uncle Gary!

'08 "Felino" wines from Argentina

My grandma (who is 84 and going strong) and I recently had a chance to taste three different wines from winemaker Paul Hobbs's venture in Argentina. The wine goes under the name "Felino" and is a subsidiarity of Vina Cobos.

We both found the Chardonnay to be outstanding. It had a toasty character which reminded me of a marshmallow roasted over a campfire. Lots of oak and toast, but the grape and floral aromas were present as well--I wouldn't say it was over-oaked.

The Malbec was good, but I found it a little less-dry than the Cab. Our verdict was out on both of these, perhaps because we'd given so much attention to the Chardonnay. After admitting to one another that we prefer reds and were most skeptical of the Chardonnay, this was quite a surprise. Malbec isn't my favorite to begin with, and this wasn't one that bowled me over. Certainly it was good, but not remarkable. I would recommend each of these wines, but rank them 1) Chardonnay 2) Cab and 3) Malbec.

You can learn more about Paul Hobbs and the wines he makes here: http://www.paulhobbs.com/

-Erik

Editor's Note

In a few days, I'll be in Phoenix to celebrate Easter with my extended family. I'm looking forward to checking out Cowboy Ciao, Kazimierz, perhaps Granite Creek or maybe some of the wineries up by Camp Verde or the Chino Valley. If you have any suggestions, leave a comment!!!

Dancing Bull 2006 California Cabernet

Presentation: ***

Nose: ****

Complexity: **

Value: ****

Overall: ***

I recall reading somewhere that this was perhaps the best Cabernet you could buy at the $10 price point, and so a lot of restaurants also serve it (at about $30 a bottle). I was supremely impressed by its structure. The complexity was less than I would prefer, but it's a sourced cab and, accordingly, you're simply not going to get some of that single vineyard or locally grown terrior that you might find in a pricier CA or WA cab. It's spicy, dry, and is solid enough to be served as a stand-alone or pre-dinner bottle. But it begs to be accompanied by a medium-well done steak off the grill !

Erik's the Red "Toad Hollow" Proprietary Red

Presentation: ***

Nose: **

Complexity: ****

Value: **

Overall: ***

This bottle was a gift--a very nice presentation and bottling of Paso Robles wine. Interestingly enough, the bottle didn't designate a year or the types of grape that went into this blend. However, I sniffed out Cab Franc and after a bit of internet research, found that the three principal grapes in this blend of Cab Franc, Petit Sirah, and Zinfandel. Three great grapes. The complexity was very nice and I felt that the wine kept opening to different flavors, especially as it came up to room temperature. Not too peppery, but with plenty of mineral and earthen flavors--it reminded me of some of the Tempranillo I've been enjoying lately.

VinaVillano 2006 Tempranillo

Presentation: ***

Nose: ****

Complexity: ***

Value: ****

Overall: ****

Continuing with our presentation of Spanish Reds, this 100% old-vine Tempranillo really delivered. At about $12, it was a straightforward "new world" style wine with lots of limestone and mineral character. Anyone who enjoys spicy Zinfandel or dry Cabernet shouldn't be disappointed with this one. It's a gem. -Erik

Pelta 2008 (Valencia)

Presentation: ***

Nose: ***

Complexity: **

Value: ***

Overall: ***

This bottle of Pelta from Valencia, Spain was recommended by a wine store owner with expertise in European Wines. At just under $10 it turned out to be a nice wine at a reasonable price. It combines 80% Tempranillo with 20% Monastrell, which I found to be interesting and a new taste to my palate. The nose has notes of earth and dark, ripe fruit. This is a medium-bodied wine, rich in structure and expansive with notes of black and blueberries on the finish. If you're looking for a nice bottle of wine from Spain, I think you'll enjoy this! -Greg

Viu Manent "Estate Collection" Malbec 2008

Presentation: ***
Nose: **
Complexity: ***
Value: ****

Overall: ***

This 2008 Malbec was reccomended to me by a wine department manager in Portland, OR. The nose lacked the more distinct aroma common to a nice bottle of Malbec. The color was rich. The Viu Manent had hints of blackberry, boysenberry, and rasberry with a taste of chocolate and mocha on the finish. The taste in the mouth was nice but not enduring. Perhaps a couple of years cellared would enhance this wine. I found it adequate for an everyday bottle of Malbec but not one to highly reccomend to a friend.

-Greg

Volver 2005 Tempranillo

Presentation: *****

Nose: ***

Complexity: *****

Value: ***

Overall: ****

This is the first of February's month of "World Wines You'll Love" I was stunned by this La Mancha wine--it's 100% tempranillo, and I bought it as an impulse buy when really in the mood for something from Spain a few months back. It's not a cheap bottle, retailing in the ballpark of $20 a bottle. However, this is a case where you indeed get what you pay for. Its dry, complex taste kept unfolding with wonderful earthy flavors. Some mineral flavors, but also tobacco and gentle spice. Anyone who likes California Cabs should try this and see if Spain can't pack a punch in a bottle of red. Would pair wonderfully with steak, lamb, pork, or even a chef salad.

February = World Wines You'll Love!

All this month on Decant This! we'll be exploring wines you'll love from around the world. When winter is upon us here in the midwest, it's a great time to enjoy a special bottle from Spain, Chile, Argentina, Portugal, or even Australia or South Africa. So dig into your cellar or swing by the wine shop and find one of these beauties: they won't dissapoint!

Estancia "Keyes Canyon Ranches" Merlot 2006

Estancia "Keyes Canyon Ranches" Merlot 2006

Presentation: ***

Nose: **

Complexity: *

Value: **

Overall: **

A few months back, October perhaps, I had a bottle

of this and thought "Wow--now THAT'S a good

Merlot!" What a fool I was! When drinking the

same vintage, same wine a few nights ago I

noticed a real lack of originality in it. It's

stable, sure. But it's also not much

to write home about. You can taste

the oak, and it's smooth. But that's

about all I can say for it.

Needs improvement.

Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet (Columbia Crest) 2007

Presentation: ***

Nose: **

Complexity: ****

Value: ***

Overall: ***

This week's wine is a Cabernet that has gotten some rave reviews in wine publications--Columbia Crest's "Horse Heaven Hills" Cabernet. My knowledge of terroir isn't the greatest, but this wine has a great deal of minerality and some black pepper flavors. The nose refused to open up to me, but it's complex flavor and seemingly condensed bouquet made it an excellent, stand alone Cabernet. If you like Cab, this one is a lot of fun to drink.